D&T Summative

Part 1:

Eric and myself worked on the engine. As far as we knew the engine just needed a good cleaning with minimal repairs and replacement parts needed.  The first thing that I did to the Yamaha SX 650 was remove the engine from the bike frame. This was done by removing the drive chain which attached the drive gear inside the engine to the rear wheel. Next we removed bolts securing the engine to the frame alone with removing the electrical components. Because the bike is a kick start there wasn’t as many electrical components it was mainly the Pamco starter unit. Once the engine was removed from the frame I removed the carburetors from the engine. Because the bike sat for so long outside the carburetors will have to be cleaned. I then began to remove the oil tube thinger, valve cover and cylinder head. We did this because when we used the kick starter to try to start the bike it wouldn’t move leading us to the assumption that one or both of the cylinders were seized. The cylinder head was removed by taking the bolts off, the oil line, which brings oil from the bottom of the engine to the top and removed the cam shaft and chain. We did not have a chain breaker to remove the chain but we used the cam chain tensioner to release as much slack as we could so we would be able to slide the camshaft out of the engine. Once we got the piston free we sent the cylinder and cylinder head to a machine shop where they performed a process called Deglazing. This process was basically a big oven that burnt all the years of rust and grime off the components. I then spent time cleaning the grooves where the piston rings had been because the seized piston had resulted in seized piston rings and lots of built up grime. I then took the side covers off to inspect the rest of the engine. It was apparent that the previous owner had taken very good care of the bike because the inside of the engine was very clean as a result of regular oil changes. Upon further inspection of the oil filters we noticed that there was an abundance of black flakes of plastic and metal. This was a result of the cam chain guide needing to be replaced. Here you can see the removal of the seized piston and cylinder.  I finished by reconnecting the chain adjusting the clutch and setting the chain tension. The chain should have about  ¾ inch of play. we set that by measuring the chains play from its resting position to pushing down as far as it would go. The next step was centering the rear wheel on the bike. Truing the wheel proved to be more difficult than anticipated because the marker that is used to line up the rear axle with was broken off. As a result of this we centered the wheel using a Dial Indicator.  

Part 2:

Parts list

Pamco Ultimate High Output Ignition System: $225

Commando muffler and reducer sleeves: $155

Die cast chrome Crankcase breather filter: $15

Clutch Replacement:

 Clutch pushrod seal: $5.75

 Clutch cable: $15

 Clutch lever: $8.50

 Clutch Bracket: $6.50

         Total: $35.75

Part 3:  

I have learned many new thing regarding how a motor bike over all works. This course has taught me how to work on small single cylinder engines to working on large car engines and cars as a whole. I feel the bike has helped reiterate everything I have learned over the last three years. This has helped me to feel more confident to perform more tasks on my own vehicles and small engine because many of the systems that we worked on on the bike are similar to that of those others. The bike has also taught me more about what you put in is what you get out and being prideful of my work and accomplishments.